I travel with two children, a partner and roughly twice the luggage any reasonable family requires, so my test of a downtown hotel is brutally simple: can we get in the door, up to the room and back out to dinner without a meltdown — mine or theirs? The Fairmont Royal York passes that test with room to spare, and the reason is one word long: Union Station. Step out of the train, cross the street, and you are in the lobby. For a family arriving by rail from anywhere in the country, nothing in Toronto is more convenient.

The Royal York opened in 1929 and was once the tallest building in the British Commonwealth — a château-style giant with more than 1,300 rooms, a rooftop garden with its own beehives, and a direct connection to Toronto's underground PATH network. It is grand in the old manner, and after a recent refresh it wears its history well.

Rooms, and the details that matter to families

Our room was spotless — and I mean daily, reliably spotless, which is the single thing I value most on a family trip. It is a compliment guests repeat constantly: "immaculately cleaned every day," "attention to detail right down to how they arranged our things." Housekeeping here is a genuine strength. The beds were comfortable, the room well organised for a family spreading out, and the pool and gym earned enthusiastic reviews from smaller and larger members of my party respectively.

The staff, too, drew the kind of loyalty you can't manufacture — repeat guests naming the team members who look after them, surprise upgrades, a front desk that stays warm even when the lobby is heaving. On the strength of service and cleanliness alone, the Royal York earns its place.

A hotel lives or dies on the small things when you have children in tow — and this one sweats the small things.

The honest notes for parents

It is a very large, very old building, and that brings quirks. The hallways can feel dark and cavernous, and the keycard elevator system — while sensible for security — is a genuine faff when you're juggling a stroller and a sleeping child. Some rooms still feel due for modernisation, and the atmosphere at peak times can tip from "grand" into "chaotic." None of this is a dealbreaker, but manage your expectations if you picture a serene boutique hush.

Two practical warnings from fellow guests that I'll amplify, because they affect the bill and the planning. First, there have been complaints about a mandatory minibar charge and a general sense of being nickel-and-dimed for extras — ask at check-in exactly what is chargeable. Second, and more seriously, a wheelchair-using guest found the accessibility fell short of what was advertised, with access routed awkwardly through service areas. If accessibility is essential to your party, phone ahead and confirm the specifics of the room, don't assume.

Location beyond the station

Beyond that priceless proximity to Union Station, you're within an easy walk of the CN Tower, Rogers Centre and Scotiabank Arena — which, if your family's trip revolves around a game or a show, is worth as much as any amenity inside the hotel. The rooftop garden is a charming surprise, and the afternoon tea is a lovely way to bribe tired children into good behaviour for an hour.